True, the Drapers Arms may have been just another stylish new London gastropub, but for the disturbingly Orwellian battle it found itself locked in before opening. Ordered by the coppers to install a CCTV camera, which would creepily take a snap of every customer entering and leaving, Nick Gibson and Ben Maschler launched a media war and eventually beat back the peeping baddies. And so stands triumphantly amidst the fashionable boutiques of Islington this charmingly chic little bastion of defiance. Chef Karl Goward returns to Blighty from stints at New York’s Prune and Spotted Pig, to dish up the dishes of yore, from Scotch Woodcock to Potted Rabbit—truly smashing when paired with a pint of Spitfire. And every visit is, veritably, like sticking it to the man.

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